Wednesday, 5 P.M September 21, 2011. Jared Thorne arrives from a month in Europe, surfing wqs events and hanging out with his family. I pick Jared up from Lax, 2 board bags filled with 4 a piece. One belonging to Taylor. Weigh as much as an obese child. Drive back to his home in Newport Beach. Discuss trip and he presents me with a bottle of whine from Spain as a present to my dad and I.
After a few hours of jamming it is 11 p.m, I head home in my dirty tahoe, listening to rolling stones and excited to have my friend back. Next morning, Thursday the 22nd. I wake up at 4.am from a dream that I live in the neighborhood of Peter parker. I am a performer of poetry in Brooklyn. Life is good. Pondering on moving to east coast, fall back asleep.
Wake up to my phone buzzing of the missed calls from Jared, apparently he can't sleep either. I wake up at 10, he's already surfed. I head back over to newport
Jared informs me that he needs to pick up a board from his shaper byrne in ocean side. We try and fail to jump start his car, and kill a very massive spider that has decided to spin its web over his hood. Jared justifies the killing that it could probably kill a baby. I laugh. We ride bikes to get breakfast. Delicious mexican omelette. The avocado is tough. Load boards into Taylor's car. Decide we will check lowers on the way there. I haven't surfed in a week and am due to get in the ocean. Waves look terrible and crowded. Head onward to ocean side, listen to 50's and 60's rock. We realize that hardcore then and hardcore now is a huge difference and shows the progression of humans open mindedness to sex, drugs, and cursing. We head home. Jared decides to not pack his new board. We check 54th street. Unsurfable. Head back to Jared's house. Jared decides to go fishing. I am enthusiastic as I have never caught a fish. Jack Koeller comes over. We board the "soul mate". The experienced fisherman decide to buy a large scoop of live anchovies. I struggle at picking them up and placing them in the boat's bait holder thing whatever you call it. Find a suitable spot to anchor. Jared and Jack catch a few bass, mackarel, and a baricuda which I dislike because it killed Nemo's mommy. They laugh and throw all the fish back. I decide not to get in the way. After an hour of watching them real in. They let me have a go. I catch the fish of the day, a legal bass. I am too scared to put my finger in its mouth due to its razor sharp teeth that must be inside. Jack does it for me. I feed the bass to awaiting pelican. Ponder if I just screwed up the ecosystem or if I was being a kind human. We leave back to the harbor and clean up the boat. Jared is now off to Fiji. He's training to be a boatman which pretty much acts like a life gaurd for the island. He's excited and a bit apprehensive. Loads board and clothes in my car. Quick stop at five guys for a burger. Off to lax. Jared passes out from exhaustion. wake him up at Tom bradley international. Jared leaves. I am sad, but he returns on my birthday. 24 hours He's in three different countries 4 inlcluding a lay over.
no hipstamatic? I just gained so much more respect for you !!
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