19 tomorrow, last year of being a teenager...

To me its rather daunting to think in 366 days I will be twenty years old. Like that's some mile stone to reach. Being a teenager these days carries such negative connotations. We are the ones glued to our smart phones, only book we read has a face attached to it, and we compute more information and create less. Being a teenager has been freaking tough for me ! In high school, I never really achieved what I was capable of. I didn't have the work ethic that I had in surfing to put me in an institution of which I may be capable of attending. In contests, I was a emotional wreck. Ryan Simmons finally gave me the tools to succeed by making me mellow out and just surf. Don't over amp with headphones and just have fun. Sounds simple but their was so many heats that I choked because of being too nervous and that transitioned into being overly excited and surfing dumb heats. Not trying to sound like I know it all but it seems age makes your approach on life a little more refined each year. I noticed my dad drives much slower then my friends and I and I thought about the things he has told me. If you ever hurt someone with your negligence you will never forgive yourself. Crazy how american's need to slow their pace of life down quite a bit. In australia, Noa's family is really mellow. Even if the waves are pumping, theirs no rush, just flow with the pace of the day. That mentality is something that's crucial for surfing. You can't rush your surfing. Too many kids are racing to sections that aren't even there. Let a wave be a metaphor for life, use what it gives you and don't force what it doesn't.