philosophy of barrels

Today for lack of better usage of the english dictionary, I got shacked. I'm claiming it yes. A wonderful encasing tomb of water and foam spinning around my frame and ejecting me through to the safety of the waves shoulder. A glorious experience one that rivals intimacy with a beautiful women. I love getting barreled. Such a simple thing that can pay your bills or wind you in hospitals. Watching the tow session that occured on the layday of the billabong pro tahiti, I was aware of what raw energy the ocean can pay out and only way to escape such power is to hide in the revolving vortex of the "shack house". hahah With out all the bull shit, I hope everyone gets a few good ones this swell !