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12.5.10

Brazil

Probably nobody is going to read this or nobody is gonna care even if they do read it. But Brazil is much better this time than last time. I wouldn´t say the waves are pumping, but there~s definately overhead swell since we~ve been here. Long drawn out lefts are what has been happening. I made my heat this morning. I thought i was gonna lose because after my first wave i had to do a runaround and when I got back outside, I started throwing up and got super sick. Now i~m feeling a lot better but still not 100%. Other than surfing, i~ve been reading books, watching movies, and eating great food.
-Taylor

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